Home Food & Wine Pairing Tasting: CVNE Monopole Clásico Gran Reserva Blanco Seco 2017, Rioja
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Tasting: CVNE Monopole Clásico Gran Reserva Blanco Seco 2017, Rioja

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Rioja

There are wines that tell a story, and this copy signed by CVNE (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) is undoubtedly one of them.

Few wines can claim such a clear history as Monopole. First created in 1915, this white wine signed by CVNE is not just a label, but a landmark in the evolution of white wines in Rioja — and throughout Spain.

In the Gran Reserva Blanco Seco 2017 version, Monopole becomes a mature, complex and surprisingly current expression of a style that combines tradition with modern precision.

A wine born from extreme conditions

The 2017 vintage was not an easy one. Spring frosts and prolonged drought reduced production by about 50%, but concentrated the flavors in a rare way.

Viura grapes come from a plot located at an altitude of almost 600 meters, cultivated without irrigation — a choice that emphasizes the character of the terroir and the natural tension of the wine.

Time, the invisible ingredient

If many white wines are built for immediate freshness, Monopole Clásico goes in the opposite direction.

Fermented and then matured for five years in old Rioja barrels and Sherry barrels, the wine acquires a subtly oxidative note — that elegant patina reminiscent of Europe’s great matured white wines.

And yet, paradoxically, it remains alive, bright, almost tense. It is a difficult balance to achieve: between maturity and energy.

Limited production, unique character

With only 2,730 bottles produced, this wine is not about volume, but about expression.

He is the kind of white who does not try to impress with exuberance, but with depth. A wine that takes time — both in the bottle and in the glass.

Tasting: finesse and layering

Flavor
The nose is elegant and layered: lemon peel, dried apricot and a mineral note of flint, which brings an almost burgundian air.

Taste
On the palate, the wine gradually opens up. Meyer lemon and peach provide freshness, while apricots and almonds add roundness. The saline note completes the whole with precision.

Structure
The body is medium to rich, with a ample but well-controlled texture. Nothing dominates, everything is integrated.

Final
The finish is bright, with a well-defined acidity and a subtle tinge of sea salt, which lingers and invites you to the next sip.

Pairing: creaminess and contrast

The Monopole Clásico Gran Reserva goes perfectly with spaghetti alla carbonara.

The fat and creaminess of the dish are balanced by the acidity of the wine, and the slightly oxidative and almond notes create an aromatic bridge with the rich texture of the sauce.

It is a pairing that is not based on simple contrast, but on complementarity.

A white that defies expectations

Rioja is primarily known for its red wines, but Monopole Clásico proves that the region’s great white wines can effortlessly stand alongside Burgundian references.

It is not a wine for quick consumption. It is one that requires attention, patience and openness.

Because, in the end, it’s not just about flavor or structure — it’s about how time and tradition can be transformed into a living, glass-like experience

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